![]() Consider buying a “braking assist” device like a Megajul, Pilot or Smart 2.When you buy that new 8.7 single rope, don’t assume it will catch a fall and rappel the same way that your old 9.8mm rope will.Do it with the rope and carabiner combo you’re most likely to use. Do your own testing on any belay device you may be considering. ![]() 2mm variation in reporting rope diameter! That 9.2mm rope you’re thinking about might actually be a 9.6mm rope! To throw another wrench in the works here, the CE and UIAA both allow +/. What KP thinks is an acceptable range of rope diameters may not agree with what Peter Popall thinks is acceptable. The important thing to remember here is that there is not necessarily any continuity between brands. While I’m sure the reputable companies have a pretty thorough testing methodology, I’m equally sure that there are companies who get their results from their marketing department. Similarly, there is no standard for testing or reporting the recommended rope diameters for manual belay devices. The UIAA test for Locking Assisted Devices, on the other hand, is quite stringent and, of the popular devices, only the Grigri, Vergo, Revo, Matik and Eddy have this certification. Here’s the Spec: UIAA Braking Device Standard The UIAA standard for manual devices is similar. The CE standard for manual devices is merely a strength standard: they just pull the device apart and see if they can break it. While I’m sure that most of the companies have conducted their own tests for belaying, stopping a fall and rappelling, each company gets to make up its own test and report (or not report) the results as they see fir. As you’re having this discussion keep in mind that there is no test standard for manual belay devices that measures their effectiveness while belaying.
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